How to Spot a Fake or Replica Watch

Luxury watches are big business. It's easy to splash a few thousand dollars on one. They are typically used as a status symbol due to the engineering involved, after all $1 watches so the same job.

However a lot of design goes into the top end watches, not just the style but the movement. Lower end watches can also have plenty of style like Bench watches, but they are not as recognised or respected as a good Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer or Breitling (to name a few).

I have an interest in watches although not the money, so I'm usually on the streets in asia with the market sellers convincing people how accurate and nice their replica's are as opposed to being in a genuine authorised watch dealer. It became more a hobby of picking out the flaws once you know what to look for, and is actually fun as some are so accurate, at first glance they will fool anyone. They ALL need a longer look to spot them.

It is also easier to spot the differences when you have a real next to a replica. But that is not so possible if you don't have the few thousand dollar funding to start with! So I've compiled this guide of things I've noticed on the streets, and common things that the replica's just can't get right.

Counterfeit watches usually have one obvious difference - the price. If it seems too good to be true it is. Genuine watches come with paperwork with the serial number of the watch certifying it's origin. You can phone the watch dealer to confirm this and indeed you should if you are forking out on just one watch and don't have the money for a collection.

Are the designs the same? Sometimes replicas have a mix and match approach to watch design. They like they chronograph on one and the face of another mixed with a strap of another one. Genuine producers of high end watches tend to stick with the same design and it's quite easy to find about changes with a Google search. However custom orders by some customers and limited edition models can confuse things a bit, so do your homework.

The main selling point in top end watches is the unique timing motion. Whilst some manufacturers have been caught out by going for the same thing every time (Hublot was caught out on this - and even they couldn't tell their own from the replica's much to their embarrassment) unique gearing and how each hand moves is the subtle difference that costs a lot of money for the consumer. A Rolex second hand for example should never stop and 'tick' between the seconds, it should be a smooth continuous movement which is hard to replicate. However it is very difficult to spot this unless you know what you are looking for, so it's not the best way to spot a fake (although the way a professional analysing it would do so).

How many flaws do you think are found on genuine $5000+ watches?

None is the answer. Every thing is carved and engraved correctly. Every hour hand is perfectly aligned with the right amount of trim around it. The crown should pull out correctly and feel nice when changing the time. It will hold time after shaking it for at least 48 hours.

Do you think replica's get all of this correct?

Of course not, it takes far too much time and effort for a far smaller sum of money. They can get it VERY close, but it just isn't worth their effort perfecting it, they aren't going to make another dollar out of it.

Bring your spectacles when you take a look, but you will see things out of alignment. If not the hour marker then the paint on it may not be straight (the edge should be the same on each side on each marker). Look for reflections underneath the glass to see if the brand name has been etched/painted on like an original or is just a sticker. Is it aligned properly?

Check the spelling too, you'll be surprised at some mistakes, I spotted 'Wsiss mdae' on one of them!

Check the strap matches the watch. You can do this by checking other replica's if they are all the same then they probably are correct, if one Omega Watch has a Rolex strap on, then it will stand out a bit. Also check the markings on the strap. I found a Omega Seamaster watch with an Omega Speedmaster etching on the strap. The strap itself and locking mechanism are the same, but it will have the appropriate writing on dependent on the actual watch.

The more fashionable watches tend to fall apart quicker too, like Tag Heuer. Rolex and Omega tend to have more subtle classic styling (which is easier to replicate), which means they tend to be more reliable (as well as being more popular selling).

Glass is supposed to be scratch proof, a lot of replica's now have this though (and is one of the first things demonstrated by sellers I found bashing it with a screwdriver). Check the wind up works yourself, and if cogs are viewable from the design, make sure they are consistently moving, there should be no slow down or abnormalities. You certainly shouldn't have to start it up more than once in the time you are with a seller.

The design should always be accurate and smart. If bolt heads are viewable from the design then they should all be facing the right direction. This is hard to replicate as it means each hole that the bolt goes into must be accurately machined for the bolt head to finish in the correct space. Replica's don't go to this accuracy. Look at the hour markers, in Breitlings you will find a smaller marker when it is required (like on the 3 position where the date typically is) but on a replica they will put the same size on as the other hour markers (as it's cheaper to produce).

All functions of the watch should work correctly. Most don't have anything further than date or day of week but the battery powered ones can do a few more tricks.

In conclusion, just use your brain and be very picky about details. I've covered a few I know here, I enjoy spotting them, but I'm sure I miss plenty of flaws too. You can get very good replica's and ones that just don't quite make it. The price usually reflects the quality at the end of the day. If you want a nice genuine watch and at a reasonable price, I'd recommend Seiko, they do some styling automatic options at affordable prices.